Pan-Fried Duck Breast

Method

1. Lightly score the skin of each duck breast in a crosshatch pattern with a sharp knife — through the fat, but not into the meat. This is what lets the fat render properly.
2. In a pestle and mortar, grind the juniper berries, caraway seeds, allspice, 1 tablespoon of salt, and a few grinds of pepper into a coarse powder. Rub the spice mix all over the duck breasts.
3. Wrap the duck tightly and refrigerate to marinate. Overnight is ideal; minimum 30 minutes.
4. When ready to cook: lay the duck breasts skin-side down in a dry, heavy-based frying pan. Start over low heat and gradually turn it up. Fry for around 5 minutes, until most of the fat has rendered out and the skin is crisp and deep golden.
5. Flip and lightly brown the meat side for another minute or two — the breasts should feel just springy when pressed (medium-rare).
6. Lift the duck out and rest in a warm spot — covered loosely with foil — while you make the sauce. Keep them warm; nobody wants a cold dinner.
7. Pour off all but a thin film of fat from the pan and set over high heat. Add the port and bubble for a minute, scraping up any browned bits.
8. Add the cranberries, orange zest and juice, cinnamon stick, star anise, chicken stock, and the jelly. Bring to a boil and reduce by about two-thirds, until syrupy.
9. The cranberries should be soft — squash a few with a wooden spoon and leave the rest whole for texture. Pour in any juices that have collected from the resting duck.
10. Taste, adjust seasoning, and add a touch more jelly if you want it sweeter. Off the heat, swirl in the butter to glaze the sauce.
11. Slice the duck on the diagonal, fan it out on warm plates, and spoon the sauce around. Parsnip purée and creamed cabbage with thyme are the classic sides.